Tuesday, 28 September 2010

Someday My Prince Will Come.



Please note there are a number of links in the text below as most of the pictures are subject to copyright law. It is an offence to use them without permission.



When I was a child, I dreamed of being a princess in a castle. I'd swoosh around in my Aunt's wedding dress, picking up the skirt just like Sleeping Beauty or Cinderella. Even my Barbie doll was a princess except her prince wasn't Ken. It was an old 'Action Girl' doll which I cut short her hair to make her look more like a boy!

I still love all of the classic fairy tales, the beautiful princess who's prince will carry her away and live happily ever after and then hope he wouldn't turn into a toad!

I guess for me I am living the fantasy. My prince charming is still very much the prince charming and to be among beautiful wedding gowns with my work must be every big girls' dream.




I'm sure, even in our adult lives, we still have those dreams. The fairytale with the happy ending and I still feel the wedding gown plays an important part in making that childhood fantasy come true. Afterall, having the fairytale gown is the magical touch that finishes your wedding day.


Katie Price fullfilled her fantasy when she married Peter Andre in a pink tulle gown complete with Cinderella glasss carriage. Of course, they did it all over again, this time Katie opting for something much more traditional!

Again, when Katie married Alex Reid, her gown was less of the fantasy chosing something of a classy look for her day.

Her gown was created by Amanda Plester who has been creating couture gowns for more than 25 years!


I suspect the most famous fairytale to come true would be that of
Prince Rainier III of Monaco marrying the American film actress Grace Kelly.


Of course, not every woman wants to be the princess.

Some are quite happy to be Prince Charming!



Sunday, 26 September 2010

From Design to Original outfit.

I love it when I get to make something a little off the norm, so when Sarah contacted me with a sketch and asked if I could make it for her September wedding, I jumped at the chance.
The design, a wide leg trouser with attached bodice, was based on an outfit Sarah had many years ago. She loved it she told me and desperatly wanted to re-create it for her very special day.
Sarah wanted something completely backless, but I feared there would be no structure to the bodice which could end up looking like a pair of dungarees, so suggested a low scoop back to keep the support in the bodice.
The fabric used was a super 100% silk double crepe moroccain. The bodice was made in a corset style with boning for definition. The crepe was backlined and then lined with a super 100% silk Habotai lining.





The crossover straps were finished with some fabulous crystal embelishments which continued across the neckline and hip.







The little crepe bolero complete with crystal trim completed the look.
I have to say, for anyone looking for something totally different, this is just the ticket!

Monday, 20 September 2010

Buying your dress online.

Following on from my recent blog UK Dressmakers. We're really quite good and a recent feature by Vivianne of Holloway on Rock 'n' Roll bride, How to buy your wedding gown online there were a few little things I thought it well to mention.

I have talked about this very topic, Vanity measuring,


Many ladies are opting to have their wedding or bridesmaids gowns custom made offshore.There are a few important things to remember when filling out your measurement forms.

1. NEVER vanity measure. This means, don't be tempted to nip in that tape measure by even a centimeter. That seeemingly minute adjustment could mean the difference between zipping up or not! You may know your true measurement, but the dressmaker doesn't.


2. When dealing with a company with a language barrier, make sure your measurments are concurrent. Don't switch from centimeters to inches! Check and re check to make sure everything is written in what the company asks for. If they ask for inches, give them inches and take extra care in the placement of decimal points. Compaines such as the offshore custom made folk don't have time to double check measurements. (something I would immediately query) If you've written on your form your bust is 28cm and your waist is 30 inches, you're going to get a rather oddly shaped gown!!


3. If you are going to wear a corset, measure in a corset. This applies to a new bra. Boobs will have a different shape in a spanking new bra than the grey old faithful.


4. Height. Always important and sensible to measure in your 4" heels. Don't measure flat footed and then expect to wear the heels.


I have a few 'distance' clients I am currently working for and one thing I can guarantee.

As my good friend Jane recently and so eloquently put it.


"The pure unmitigated joy that what you pour your love and soul into actually is liked and wanted by other people and by your peers who are in the same industry. That and you know it's not mass produced it's made with love and imagination for people you actually care about."

Yes, Jane. I actually care about each and every one of my clients. Which is why I check and double check, something the offshore companies simply do not have time to do!

Sunday, 19 September 2010

UK Wedding Show Harrogate

And more importantly, a meet up with Jane Hardman-Ferris of HF Couture Accessories.
Wow, what a total awesome lady and what totally awesome pieces Jane had on display. I just had to try them on.
The intricacy of each piece is amazing. Many of the headband detail could be removed and used as jewellery pieces, a brooch for example.




Jane takes much of her inspiration from
Miriam Haskell, Stanley Hagler, Dior and Schiaparelli and others. A few of the pieces took my eye, especially the dragonfly headband. It looked like something from the early 1900's.


The intricate dragonfly.



Another favourite piece although my ultimate favourite, Eva, was out on loan for a photoshoot. (You'll have to visit the website to view that one)


From intricate tiara's and headbands to the ultimate in flamboyance.



Jane, I love your stuff, now would someone like to invite me to an event so I can treat myself?








UK dressmakers. We're really quite good!


I was incensed by a comment in a wedding forum recently suggesting that UK based dressmakers weren't really up to the job of producing quality bridalwear, not like the offshore bridal companies! Well, let me share with you the experience of my client, Becky after she decided to purchase her wedding gown from one of the more popular 'custom made' bridal companies.


The website suggested the use of best quality fabrics and so Becky's wedding gown was to be made from taffeta with a beaded and sequined lace applique. The bodice was pleated with large swags of fabric to each side of the hip area.




I was concerned with the 'best quality fabric' used in this photo as you can clearly see the lining through the fabric easpecially at the hemline!


There are no beads or sequins on this lace.



The swags of fabric hang much too low which in my opinion, take the line of the gown out of proportion.


The back of the gown show the lace up back which again in my opinion is out of proportion.
So, when the finished gown eventually arrived to Becky, she wasn't exactly pleased or even loving her gown.
The petticoat which had been made to go beneath the gown was too long and was visible at the hem. On top of that, the bones were visible through the fabric. Becky asked for my professional opinion which was quite hard to do as I certainly didn't want to upset her further. However, this was as gentle as I could put it.
"I’ve been thinking about this, probably putting off the inevitable into giving you an honest opinion, but as you have asked I do feel I should give you my thoughts.
Ok. With my professional dressmakers hat on.

When I make a wedding gown, I source the best possible fabrics. I buy per job so I have to take into account the suitability of fabric for the dress. If a customer wants sumptuous, I advice pure silks. I tend not to use synthetic taffeta for bridal as the quality isn’t always the best. I tend to advise a silk dupion as silk taffeta is costly.
Beadwork. Beaded/sequined laces come in anything from around £40 - £100 per meter. There is non beaded variety which can be used but then you need to consider the time to bead. You can buy motifs which work well but can work out costly when you require a lot. Hence purchasing beaded lace by the meter and then carefully trimming out the motif itself.
When I make my gowns, depending on the weight, I build the petticoat in. I am using a white silk at the moment which has a hot pink petticoat. To avoid the colour grinning through the fabric, I have triple lined it. Wedding gowns with petticoats tend to be triple lined. (mine can be)

Quantities of fabric must also be taken into account. If I were to make something similar to the one you’ve ordered, I’d be looking at least 10-12 meters if not more to achieve the drape.
So, to my nitpicking.

1. I don’t feel there is enough sparkle on the lace. I did point this out after the last photos they sent. The lace had no beadwork on it what so ever. I know you raised concerns.
2. I don’t feel the distance between the corset at the top is adequate. It should be about 5”.
3. It appears the hoop is visible through the dress which draws attention to the interrupted flow of the skirt and detracts the eye's attention from the overall effect of the dress. (this could be corrected with the use of a net petticoat)
4. The fabric used looks flimsy for the design. This however could be improved with a well fitting/constructed corset and as before, a petticoat.

Whether inexpensive or costly, the dress must be fit for purpose. Fit for purpose with a wedding dress will include all the practical things like wearable without falling apart etc., but may also include unspoken expectations that matter to the bride but would be different things for others, eg. one bride may want a luxurious gown which will be the dress of her dreams which she intends to store as a keepsake, another may just want a dress for the ceremony and some photos and doesn't attach any emotional significance to the dress.

I think you have to weigh up what you think you’ve been sold and what you have been. Have you been told what fabrics they use to what the original is? If on their picture it says taffeta for example, then the picture I would think would be a pure silk not synthetic. Basically, do you feel you’ve got what you paid for?

I know this is no consolation and as I said, haven’t wanted to give you my honest opinion, but I think it only fair that I do
."


So, as Becky had already asked me to make her bridesmaid gowns, she asked for a quote and the rest was history.


Using a pure silk dupion, I sourced a super beaded and sequined lace which the most amazing scallop edge that worked perfectly at the bustline.


I used 15 meters of silk in the gown which had a fully corset inside and built in net petticoat.



To take the detail from the front swags to the back, I hand bustled the train adding the lace motifs to each pick-up point.



Becky being laced into her gown.













Taking inspiration from a wedding gown she had tried, Becky received a pure silk gown totally unique to her. No copies, no hassle just a beautiful gown for a very beautiful lady. The look was completed with a triple-tier diamante veil (made by me) and a tiara which Sarah from Simply Wedding Dresses. allowed me to borrow a selection.
I would like to thank Becky for allowing me to use the photographs and sharing her experience with an offshore wedding gown company.





Saturday, 18 September 2010

Vintage. Is it the way forward?


Opened my copy of this months Perfect Wedding to find a heap of vintage-inspired gowns. Loads of shorties popping up now which is fine if you want vintage, but not so if you want something more traditional.


With my diary now closed for next year, (until September 2011 and subject to outstanding enquiries) it's an exciting time for me as all of my clients have, between us, designed their perfect wedding gown.

Each have brought together elements of gowns which suit them perfectly and I simply cannot wait to get cracking on each and every one of them.

I'm finding this just as exciting (ok, it's more of a squeeling excitement) as when a client brings me a pattern and simply says. "Make this please."

Next year I am working mostly on bridal gowns with a few bridesmaids (including some gorgeous 'fairy' flowergirl dresses) thrown into the mix.

So, may I take the opportunity to thank all of my new clients. I'm very much looking forward to 2011!

Monday, 13 September 2010

Busy Month

It has been another exceptionally busy time for me again. Not only have I been busy creating gorgeous gowns for gorgeous ladies, but am in the media for a second time.
Pure Weddings editor, Amanda Griffiths interviewed me back in March 2010 with the feature going to press September 2010. Not only have I been graced with a double page spread (with the photographic talents of Rob Booker) but I'm even mentioned on the front cover!

I've also been busy with these wonderful ladies who were the bridesmaids to my client Claire.


Claire opted for the most softest of peach silk and each time I worked with it, it
evoked visions or ice cream and sorbets, a typical summer sensation.
After sourcing the perfect shade, I ran into the small problem of the dye not quite being the peach I wanted after the initial sample was requested. However, my supplier went back to the manufacturer and requested the specific shade to be dyed to order for me. That's service!


I think you'll agree, these ladies look simply scrumptious.

http://www.robbooker.co.uk/
http://www.pureweddingsnorth.co.uk/